Acid Esters
DETAIL
Sorbitan Oleate is the monoester of oleic acid (a source of omegas) and hexitol anhydrides derived from sorbitol (often used as a humectant). It is used in a variety of formulas used in the cosmetic industry, including skin care products, skin cleansing products, moisturizers, eye makeup and other makeup, according to RealSelf.com. Although also seen as a fragrance ingredient and surfactant, it is primarily used as an emulsifier, and is especially suited formulations containing vegetable oils (LotionCrafter.com). It is considered a good co-emulsifier for lotions and other emulsions.
General characteristics
Sorbitan Oleate is an ester of oleic acid, an example of an unsaturated fatty acid (C18H34O2) and sorbitol, which belongs to the group of sugar alcohols (C6H14O6). In the literature, it is also referred to using its the common name: Sorbitan Monooleate. The CAS number of this compound is 1338-43-8. Sorbitan Oleate is a viscous liquid, yellow to brown in colour. It is well soluble in ethanol, mineral oil and also vegetable oils. However, it is characterized by very low solubility in water. Sorbitan Oleate is a type of ingredient that can be animal, vegetable, and synthetic in origin. Most often, the plant origin is dominant, as a result of obtaining oleic acid for synthesis from olive oil, butter or cod liver oil.
Chemically, Sorbitan Monooleate is formed by the binding of sorbitan (a dehydrated sorbitol molecule) to an unsaturated fatty acid (oleic acid), which forms particles that are partially water-soluble (sorbitan) and partially oil-soluble (oleic acid). The structure of the resulting molecules determines its properties and application.
Function in cosmetic products
Sorbitan Oleate in cosmetic formulations acts as a base ingredient. Base substances are the necessary elements needed to create a cosmetic. They are responsible for the form in which the cosmetic occurs, and also allow the introduction of other components, including active substances. Sorbitan Oleate, being the base ingredient, is a lipophilic emulsifier in W/O emulsions (water molecules suspended in the oily phase). A characteristic feature of W/O emulsions is a strong interaction caused by small distances between the water droplets suspended in the emulsion. For this reason, such dispersion systems are recommended for the care of dry skin. As an emulsifier, it also protects the cosmetic against delamination during its storage. In addition, Sorbitan Oleate works in cosmetic formulations as a dispersant, as well as a non-ionic surfactant, i.e. a surfactant. Cosmetics containing Sorbitan Oleate show strong moisturizing properties. They prevent the epidermis from losing water and drying out, which is caused by other high-power detergents. In cosmetics intended mainly for make-up, i.e. in colour cosmetics, it disperses the pigments and mineral filters in sunscreen preparations (allows them to evenly disperse in the entire volume of the cosmetic formulation).
Sorbitan Oleate is used in a variety of formulas in the cosmetics industry, including skincare products, skin cleansing products (cleansing mousses, gels, micellar lotions), moisturizing products, eye make-up, and other make-up products. It is also perceived as a fragrance ingredient.